UHaul Car trailer experience [Archive] - Classic Car

Harry Hill

02-26-2008, 10:14 PM

Ken;
I manage an equipment rental yard, though not a U-haul they call me all the time to see what my requirements are for towing heavy loads. First off I require anyone hauling any equipment other than my smallest tractor or excavoter to have a 3/4 ton tow vehicle. Any half ton vehicle can pull but most can't stop a heavy load in an emergency situation. Even with trailer brakes most half tons are not adequate. The other thing is vehicle width, my Hash is too wide to go between the fenders. The other problems with half ton trucks is the axles are too light and if they are running normal tires they are too light for the load of towing heavy cars. What I am trying to tell you is for your safety and the safety of others on the road find a friend with a 3/4 ton truck or better yet a 1 ton truck to tow the trailer for you. I talk with U-Haul employees all of the time who tell me about their customers who ruin their tow vehicles trying to tow heavy vehicles on trailers. For pulling heavy equipment I use two axle trailers with electric brakes, double safety chains and chains and binders to hold everything down. If you use straps use the widest heaviest straps you can buy and stop and check them often. And remember that just because someone will rent you a trailer doesn't mean they know what is safe for you to use. Most of my employees are good guys but they will take short cuts to make their job easy and I have to double check everything to prevent law suits.

Harry

Hudsonrules

02-26-2008, 10:15 PM

The UHaul trailer is fourteen feet long, and the left fender can be moved out a little so you can open the door. UHaul would not rent me a car trailer, I first told them the car was a Hudson, they did not understand, so I told them a '76 Chevy Impala,, they could not find that car listed, If it is not in their copputor, it sure is not in their brain. When I said Ford pick up, it was to big. After a hassle with renting car trailers, I finnaly bought one, one of the best items I ever bought. Good Luck. Arnie M.:D

51c8Joe

02-26-2008, 10:57 PM

Ken
I pulled a 51 Commodore 8 from Jasper Tx to East Tennessee last year on a U-Haul. Very tight fit between the fenders and rocker trim. My passenger side trim is going to have to go to the stainless doctor for some major straightening. When the car moves around it impacts the trailer fenders. I found it hard to pull at more than 50 to 52 MPH. The trailer would start swaying badly at anything above that speed. I towed with an 02 Ram with 360 auto. No problems pulling the load, even in mountains. Only real problem was speed ( or lack of).
Joe

rambos_ride

02-27-2008, 12:55 AM

I would like to hear from those who have had experience using UHaul car trailers with Stepdown Hudsons. Good - Bad - Or Ugly. My tow vehicle is a 1/2 ton Suburban with heavy duty frame mounted hitch.

Reponses via the forum or PM directly to me.

Thanks in advance.

Ken,

Harry brings up some good points to think about. I can tell you from direct experience it's much better towing with a 1-ton vs. a 1/2 ton!

But, I think your 1/2 ton Burban will do just fine towing a Stepdown since the max weight of a Stepdown was around 3850 fully loaded.

Just, Make sure your hitch and ball are rated for at least 6000lbs - and if you don't have an electric trailer brake controller installed...better do it, you can't rely soley on your tow vehicle to stop and surge brake systems suk IMHO.

I don't know about a 14' trailer though - the wheelbase on a 4 door is 124" that's 10.33333333 feet long, not counting the rest of the body and bumpers hanging out...a 2 door Hudson might fit...but I can tell you from experience that my 4 door Hudson(s) on my 18ft trailer bed barely fitz end to end!

Hey - Since, you're down in Texas these guys are located in Sherman Texas...I'd bet you could find a good used rollback trailer like this since they're manufactured locally...

http://www.kwikload.com/

If you've ever thought of buying a trailer...I'd highly recommend this style. I bought my Sloan Rollback Trailer - used - in September 2006 and I've used it 6 times and it's already paid for itself!

http://www.49c8.com/images/fp/Trailer1.jpg

The thing about these trailers is, no ramps, they have removeable fenders - but the trailer is wide enough you do not have to take them off to load a Hudson Stepdown AND you can fully open the car doors on the trailer and still have a couple of inches to spare - even with the fenders still on!

They're are also the lowest sitting trailer on the market and claim you can load a car with 4" of ground clearance :eek:

rambos_ride

02-27-2008, 01:02 AM

NOTE: This is a good sized trailer w/18' bed and it barely fitZ end to end with the bumpers on! :D

http://www.49c8.com/images/fp/forum1a.jpg

Jon B

02-27-2008, 01:14 AM

Back in '76 when my Terraplane broke down during a long trip, I just rented a U-Haul van (the big one) and drove the Terraplane right into it. Easy as pie! (Well, the van was a bit high off the ground and those wooden planks sagged a bit when I drove her up....). But it sure beat renting a car trailer and trying to drag it behind my Honda Civic....

barrysweet52

02-27-2008, 04:31 AM

Thanks for all the comments. They are very helpful. Im planning to go interstate and bring back a 1937 Terra in a few weeks time using a hire tandem axle car trailer. Im also looking for a car trailer to buy. You dont have to use one many times to make it pay for itself. My father use to swap the rego disc from his small 6x4, to his tandem. The rego didnt specify what sort of trailer it was. Regards, Barry

Harry Hill

02-27-2008, 06:48 AM

Ken;

something else to remember is not just the weight of the car you are towing but the trailer weight also, and anything you pile into the car or back of the Suburban. Everything affects how the rig tows. On the trailer you optimally want the weight distributed 60/40 with the heavier end forward of the axle, too much tongue weight though will cause your front end of the vehicle to get light reducing steering effect and sway, with too much weight back though the back end of the tow vehicle gets light and causes the rig to sway and jack knife, balance is everything, and go slow, if anything bad is going to happen it happens faster when you are going faster. Dans trailer looks like a good one. I also use a fenderless trailer sometimes, it's higher but it also has the tires under the bed so no problems with doors and fenders.

Harry

junkcarfann

02-27-2008, 07:16 AM

If you do rent a U-Haul, it can be cheaper to rent one from where you are, and tow it empty to the car. I did that once, and it was about $220 less than renting one where the car was, and turning it in at home. The daily rate at the time was $50, whereas a one-way rental was about $425. It took 4 days to go and come back with the car.

faustmb

02-27-2008, 07:57 AM

I just used a Penske trailer to move my Pacemaker last summer. It worked out fine, but I probably wouldn't do it again. The trailer was really too short to safely carry the car. The rear of the hudson hung off the back about two feet.

Uhaul will rent a trailer as long as it's for an approved model, which you can check on their website as a quote. Also, daily rentals can be much cheaper but are only allowed for "local" rentals. The trailers don't have odometers, but I suppose you could run into insurance issues if something did happen and you were out of the local area.

Also, the newer Uhaul trailers have the hinged fenders which should make your life easier for loadind and unloading. The Uhaul dealer could probably make sure you get one if you ask in advance.

Good luck,
Matt

rambos_ride

02-27-2008, 08:32 AM

Matt,

Boy that must have been a "fun" tow!

Looks like the car being so far forward on the trailer the tonque weight must have really dropped the backend of the tow vehicle!

SamJ

02-27-2008, 08:49 AM

I won't deal with U-Haul unless I have to. I've had good experiences with Penske, but they won't rent you a trailer unless you also rent one of their trucks, at least the offices I've dealt with. :cool:

Harry Hill

02-27-2008, 09:57 AM

Sam, it may be there way of insuring the tow vehicle is up to the job. If they service the truck then they know the brakes are good and the bearings and other essentials. One thing you find out in the rental field is no matter how many safety instructions you give or what you do to protect the renter they will undo it all with stupidity then sue you because you didn't realize how stupid they are. We were sued for a million dollars from a customer who rented a trailer with a CJ Jeep, had it grossly overloaded, tried to beat a red light and had to turn at the last second going to fast, rolled the jeep and killed his friend. He won because he convinced a jury that even though we had warned him and he had signed papers saying he knew the risk, we really shouldn't have rented to him because he wasn't a responsible person and we should have known that, he also claimed we should have known not to hook a trailer to a CJ, which we no longer will.

Harry

faustmb

02-27-2008, 10:21 AM

Matt,

Boy that must have been a "fun" tow!

Looks like the car being so far forward on the trailer the tonque weight must have really dropped the backend of the tow vehicle!

It actually towed fine, but only because the tow vehicle was a 25' penske diesel truck :) The scary thing was that the truck was equipped with cruise that didn't shut off with the brake pedal ! These trucks shouldn't even have cruise control to begin with.

Matt

hudsondad

02-27-2008, 10:37 AM

We have a 16' trailer with 2 dexter 3500 axles and electric brakes. Hudsons are a tight fit width wise compared to Olds and pontiacs that we've trailered. We've towed with full size Blazers, a Tahoe and even a 1400 mile round trip to Kentucky with a Ford F 150 302 5 speed stick. A little slow on some of those long hills with the Ford, but no problems. We've never been limited on how fast we could go, but I'm sure a heavier longer wheelbase truck with a diesel could do better. I thought the electric barkes with a good controller work well.

faustmb

02-27-2008, 11:01 AM

Here is a trailer I bought used for $800. It is an older model, but had new tires and electric brakes. I repainted it and added lights and wiring. I repacked the bearings and it's ready to go for less than 1K. This might be an option for you. I would stay with at least an 18' length. This one has 18' treads and an overall length of 20' plus. It is a dove tail design which keeps the load height pretty low. I figure I could get most of my money back when I no longer need it, compared to a rental that is gone for good.

THEGREENHORNET

02-27-2008, 02:39 PM

when i first picked up my 52 coupe i used a u haul trailer. i lied and told them i was towing a vw bug because i was worried they wouldnt rent it to me if i told them i hudson. when i got the car on the trailer i think i had about an inch clearance on bothsides. and the rear wheels were about a foot from the rear edge. it was close! if you need transport i have a friend that does that. pm me if you want his number, his name is wayne, bill knows him too. -john

66patrick66

02-27-2008, 03:43 PM

UHaul is the reason I built my own car hauler! It's 19-1/2 feet long, and 83" between the fenders, so I can, and have, hauled everything from a Viper to a Hudson to a '53 2-ton Dodge HHA flatbed truck, all with zero problems. I've got a bit over 30K miles on it since 2001, when a friend and I built it (he builds them professionally). It has a 5" C-channel frame with 4x3 angle crossmembers, spaced 18" apart, with a wood deck and metal dovetail. Ramps stow in the back.

It has 3500# 5-lug axles with 15" mods and 700-15 10-ply bias trailer tires on it, along with a Braden 6K# electric winch, wrap-tongue, overrun bar, battery tray, electric brakes, a 2" 7K# Bulldog coupler, 25K# trailer jack, and wiring-in-conduit throughout. Also, I recently upgraded to LED lighting.

1965 F250 on my hauler:

http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/10230/2927262630073075023S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2927262630073075023nbRMVk)

JLPEREZ

02-27-2008, 07:26 PM

Used a U-haul trailer to take my 53 Hornet coupe to Bill Albright's Vintage Coach for restoration from Ventura county. I used my 2004 GMC sierra 1/2 ton pickup, The truck bed was loaded with a 308 twin H, tranny,loads of parts no issues. A little hairy coming down the conejo grade (6 % grade I think) when the beautiful restoration was complete.

Ol racer

02-27-2008, 07:51 PM

FYI
I have used UHaul Trailers to haul a few different model Hudson's home using an older 1/2 ton Ford pickup. UHaul apparently raised their standards (because of newer 1/2 ton trucks weaker suspension) so I told them I had a 3/4 ton. Some Hudsons were a tight fit having to crawl thru the window while the older Cars had more room.

Heart_Of_Texas

02-27-2008, 08:06 PM

Thanks to all for the qreat information provided. I will take all to heart. My son and I are now considering having a custom trailer built. So, again Thanks to all. Very good information.

Browniepetersen

02-27-2008, 08:07 PM

I went a bit different route. I purchased a Chevrolet heavy half with a special towing package. It is engineered and rated for the enclosed trailer that I have. I went with the enclosed trailer because it also seconds as a storage shed. I have pulled UHals with my truck with light loads and in my opinion they are not engineered for the larger cars that we love. I do have to admit that my next tow truck will be a one ton "dualie." However, I have never had any problems with my truck and trailer.

Harry Hill

02-27-2008, 08:15 PM

hudsondad

02-28-2008, 08:22 AM

People will endanger their own lives and the lives of those around them, I know, I turn them away every day. It isn't a matter of having the power to pull it's having the brakes to stop and the suspension to handle the load. No rental guy worth his salt rents without checking the tow vehicle, you can tell me all day your truck is 3/4 ton but if I don't see it for myself you can't rent. When I was younger and dumber I did a lot of towing with not enough vehicle and had some really hairy rides, I'm glad I never killed any one. Brownie, a heavy half is still a half ton truck and it isn't up to the job.

Harry

I don't agree with that. I think any half ton long wheelbase truck or suburban will tow a car on a trailer safely as long as:

You position the car with about 400-500 lbs of tongue weight

The trailer had good electric brakes and adjustable controller

Tires, hitch, chains, straps, vehicle and trailer all maintained and in good shape and rated for the load.

Alot of half ton trucks today are rated to tow 10000 lbs and have lots of engine, 4 wheel discs and very heavy frames. Probably lots stronger than older 3/4 and 1 ton PUs.

Harry Hill

02-28-2008, 08:28 AM

I don't expect everyone to agree with me. The tow ratings you see on your half ton are determined using fifth wheel trailers loaded correctly, not frame hitch or bumper hitch set ups. If the world were perfect though and people didn't try to pull too fast and left plenty of room in front of them and would downshift going down hills a half ton truck would probably work okay. But as witnessed even on this list people are trying to tow at over safe rates of speed and crowding traffic and generally towing as though their is no weight behind them.

Harry

hudsondad

02-28-2008, 10:17 AM

I would certainly agree the biggest safety factor is the common sense and skill of the person driving the tow vehicle

Harry Hill

02-28-2008, 11:14 AM

Both things are sadly missing in todays society. No one wants to take responsibility for their actions.

Harry

Browniepetersen

02-28-2008, 07:42 PM

I respect your opinion, but tell me again where it is you got your engineering degree?

People will endanger their own lives and the lives of those around them, I know, I turn them away every day. It isn't a matter of having the power to pull it's having the brakes to stop and the suspension to handle the load. No rental guy worth his salt rents without checking the tow vehicle, you can tell me all day your truck is 3/4 ton but if I don't see it for myself you can't rent. When I was younger and dumber I did a lot of towing with not enough vehicle and had some really hairy rides, I'm glad I never killed any one. Brownie, a heavy half is still a half ton truck and it isn't up to the job.

Harry

Harry Hill

02-28-2008, 08:56 PM

Brownie, you don't need a degree to see the results of people hauling with equipment that isn't up to the job. People buy half ton trucks because the are the loss leaders for the truck lines so they sell for a lot less than a full sized truck. They have softer suspension because most people buy them like the truck look but don't ever plan on really working with the truck. Everything about the half ton truck is built lighter to give a more car like ride, most of the components are from the automobile lines and not the truck lines. Including the brake components. So if you put a 3500lb car on a 2000lb trailer you are pulling over what your truck weighs and close to its maximum rated capacity, throw in whatever junk is in the car and the truck bed plus passengers and the weight goes up fast. If the load is balanced correctly and the driver doesn't go to fast and nothing goes wrong like getting cut off or having to brake in an emergency and your half ton truck can do the job, but people are in a hurry today, they drive too fast, and they don't pay attention to the guy with a big load and they do everything possible to put you in harms way. All I was saying is putting the word Heavy on a truck doesn't make it any bigger or stronger, anymore than putting GT on a car makes it a racer. You may be the safeest hauler in the world but for the job you are doing there are much better tools.

Harry

royer

02-28-2008, 09:55 PM

Harry, you sound like one smart cookie to me! Brownie, that was a little harsh.

On a serious note, my pickup is a 2000 F150 7700. This truck is identical to the 1999 F-250 light duty, right down to the different frame, heavy duty axles, brakes, and 7 lug hubs. (Ford didn't make a light duty F-250 in 2000). Would this truck pass the "Harry" test?

Don't sugar coat the answer, I won't be offended if I have a wimp of a truck. When I bought the truck I assumed that it was just your run of the mill, gardener variety F-150.

junkcarfann

02-28-2008, 10:17 PM

Quite a while ago (back in the early 1970's) I did some research using Ford pickup literature. At that time, there were several "150" models, and several "250" models.

The major difference was in the axles, springs, frame, and thus the hauling and towing capacities.

The lightest 150 was almost like a full-size car...3 on the tree, 6 cylinder, car-like tires, and a low towing capacity.

The 150 models went up from there, to a heavy-duty 150 that, if I remember correctly, equalled or slightly surpassed the lowest-rated 250 in capacity.

So perhaps the model designation is misleading as far a towing ability is concerned.

37 Terraplane#2

02-28-2008, 10:47 PM

Guys it ALL depends on who's doing the towing. Where Harry is at is what he dares to let some green horn that don't even know how to work the ball hitch latch leave his lot with, and beleive me he's gonna go for overkill to be safe and not get sued. An expereinced person or at least one that understands weight/balance/proper speed etc. can do a lot differantly and do it safely. Ever watch a trucker pulling doubles and triples go down an icy mtn. hill ? It's look out below, keep some torgue on the load, keep it all lined up. They know how to handle it, that's the differance. Harry doesn't know if his customer does or not . Take some kid and the first time it wiggles he hits the breaks. JACKNIFE!!!

Harry Hill

02-28-2008, 10:50 PM

Matt; I have never seen a light duty F250 or a seven lug hub but if you came in with a F150 I wouldn't hook up to your truck. I want to see a 3/4 ton rear end on a truck, that means a floating axle with 8 lugs, heavy hubs, frame mounted hitch. I don't think Brownie was harsh, I'm not the smoothest person when it comes to stating an opinion so I have a tendency to make people defensive. I have the same affect on people who come in with Nissan Titans and Toyota Tundras, they watch the commercial and believe the salesperson who tells them that even though they are rated a half ton they are really much bigger. They might be but if they have an accident it will all come down to they really have a half ton truck and I am responsible for hooking up to it. Insurance companies don't care about sales pitches, and since I am the professional I have to know what is right and what isn't. I had this same conversation with my son when he bought his F150 and then a toy hauler. It only took one trip down from Big Bear lake to convince him he needed a 1 ton truck. It scared the begeebers out of him to have that trailer push him down the hill at the bottom of Onyx Summit when the four wheel disc brakes overheated and faded. He hasn't had the problem with his F350.

Harry

Harry Hill

02-28-2008, 10:51 PM

Matt; I shouldn't say I wouldn't hook up to your truck, what I meant to say is I won't hook up a load that requires a two axle trailer. If a load can be safely carried on a single axle trailer I will hook up to a half ton truck with no concern.

Harry

Harry Hill

02-28-2008, 11:06 PM

37T2, what you say is mostly right, when I have a guy come in with a Chevy Avalanche who has never pulled more than a set of jet skis which he calls boats I know he isn't a tower. I've seen him or someone like him doing 80 in the fast lane towing his "boats" and I know he will drive the same way with my trailer. The other guys I worry about his the guy with the Durango or Ford Explorer with the big V-8 who think pulling power is the answer to towing without thinking about stopping. I worry about the guys with the big trucks also, I know size isn't the only answer to safety but I also know if I have to defend my actions in court I can reasonably argue that I attempted to make sure the vehicle was adequate to the job.

Harry

46HudsonPU

02-28-2008, 11:15 PM

All in all, the posts and thoughts on this thread tend to lean on the side of caution & safety. Honestly, it makes no sense to 'ride the bubble' or 'push the envelope' while towing or hauling on any public highway (Why try to haul the space shuttle wth a Yugo?)...

Another piece of advise is to pull out your owner's manual, and take heed of it's towing limitations (guidelines) - as always, with a bit of caution and common sense... Remember, THOSE 'numbers' are for a NEW vehicle, and do not take into account age, daily wear, tear & abuse...

Also, when thinking of towing - don't just look at the vehicle... Make sure that tow-bar attached to the back end of that vehicle is 'up to the task' as well, the safety chains are there, adequate and used, and the lights on the trailer are properly wired & work...

Ol racer

02-28-2008, 11:21 PM

FYI
I hauled 2550lb race cars on a dual axle trailer using a '78 Ford 4X4 'HD' FI50 with a 351 everywknd for many yrs with a tire rack and many extra parts and passengers up & down some mountain roads with at first only 2 wheel brakes then learned quickly that I needed 4wheel brakes. However I had no other problem with power, swaying, or stopping, and no abnormal wear on any suspension components.

Later when I tried to rent a U-Haul for a quick deal they required a F250. I assumed for the same reason they wont hang a plow on a 150 anymore because of the lighter suspension.

I do unsterstand the rationale and legal ramnifications with todays society and bought my own low slung tandem trailer...

Harry Hill

02-28-2008, 11:33 PM

Rick, thank you, I tend to be abrasive when I don't mean to be but what you said is what I have been trying to say for the last couple of days. In the end it boils down to asking yourself. Would I feel safe with this outfit sharing the road with my children or grandchildren? If you don't have any doubts it is safe go with it, if you have any doubt whatsoever make it safer, and please take your time, and give yourself twice as much room to stop as you think you'll need.

Harry

Harry Hill

02-28-2008, 11:51 PM

That's what I tell my customers, you can haul whatever you want if you own it. If you want to rent my equipment you have to go by my rules.

Harry

royer

02-29-2008, 01:53 AM

Thanks Harry. I've been considering buying a small trailer for moving pianos, in case my subcontractors flake on me. I'm sure it would work out fine for deliveries here in town, but the idea of 3000 lbs of trailer and pianos pushing me down Cajon Pass gives me white knuckles just thinking about it.

Harry Hill

02-29-2008, 07:30 AM

SamJ

02-29-2008, 09:10 AM

This is appropos of nothing, but in the mid-sixties our neighbor drove across Canada and back with is family on vacation, over the rockies, etc. He was pulling a 22 ft "house trailer" with his full-sized 1961 Pontiac with a 6-cyl engine. (Yes, they put GMC truck 6's in Canada in those days.) I'm not saying it was a good idea, but it was fairly common...things were sure different then. Since the "motorhome revolution" cars stopped pulling trailers and trailers started pulling cars. Seems like back then one of the reasons for the "Good Sam Club" was that members pledged to get out of the way because they were going so slow. You would see lines of "Good Sam" rigs going what? 45? 50? and they would pull over to let you pass. Now I'm going the speed limit on the fwy (75 in NM) and guys with Dodge turbo-diesels are passing me pullilng 5th wheel trailers that look to be 40 feet long. Yep, I'm getting old...:D

rambos_ride

02-29-2008, 09:23 AM

Matt; 3000lbs isn't too bad for a half ton truck if that is the combined weight of the trailer and load. Get electric brakes and a bulldog hitch, you will always know the trailer is hooked up. If you are going to start towing heavier loads on two axle trailers though you will want a bigger truck. I haul horses, normally three with my three quarter ton dodge, electric brakes on the trailer, 2 5/16 hitch. I just have to watch how I load them. I start at the top of Cajon Pass at about 45 mph and keep my speed down till I'm at the bottom. I figure on the road if I'm driving 55 everyone else is going faster than me so I don't end up tailgating anyone, if traffic slows I am prepared and don't end up catching up so fast I can't stop. I'm the guy everyone yells at because I'm going the speed limit.

Harry

Harry,

When I setup the Crew Cab dually to tow I went and got a new hitch and ball - something I never really paid attention to before was the rating on the hitch AND ball.

I then realized my hitch and ball on my 1/2 ton were only rated to 6k lbs as the standard hitches sold are rated @ 5-6k as are most of the the balls.

I ended up spending 80.00 to get a 10k rated hitch and 10k rated ball - 10k is the max I can tow without upgrading the receiver on the truck, the truck will tow up to 14k

So my trailer says its an 8k trailer but is rated up to @ 7000lbs, 3500 per axle and now my hitch and ball are rated to 10k.

I never felt the 1/2 ton was inadequate, it has a brake controller, dual batteries, disc brakes etc. but it was never a comfortable tow vehicle because with the short wheelbase (and 4x4) it was a much rougher ride.

But, now that I've had the exerience of towing with both, I'd only use the 1/2 ton to tow in an emergency or I couldn't get the dually and trailer into a spot because of the length!

Both of My Tow Rigs Together - I wouldn't want to switch roles :D

http://www.49c8.com/images/fp/ntot.jpg

66patrick66

02-29-2008, 01:32 PM

Dan, you bring up a valid and important point about trailer weight and tow capability...

First, I would never, ever tow a car on a trailer with a 1/2-ton anything, unless it were a SMALL car and the truck had a brake controller on it. And NEVER more than about 6,000#, in any case! That includes 1/2-ton Suburbans and other SUVs, as well. Most half-tons are fancy grocery carriers and not much else, IMO.

Always remember, a trailer is rated at the WEAKEST point of four things - first, the coupler (on my trailer, it's a 7,000 lb Bulldog; on my truck, it's a Mopar 10K# frame hitch).

Second is the BALL on the hitch. Far too many people use a 5K or a 5500# 2" ball, which is too weak to pull a car on a trailer! Make sure it is at least a 7K# ball, min of 2".

Third is the axles. I have a pair of 3,500# five-lug axles w/brakes.

Fourth is tires. I have four 700-15 ten-ply bias trailer tires, rated at 1,850# each (x4=7,400# total). NEVER use P-rated car tires, EVER! Also, NEVER use an aftermarket auminum or steel wheel unless it's rated specifically for trailer use! Go with a trailer-specific radial or bias tire (less sidewall flex), and you'll never go wrong.

So, with those four things, I am limited to 7,000#, because of the trailer coupler and the axles. Have I hauled over that? Sure. I've pulled a trailer GVW of 9,950# before on it without issues, but I'm not making a habit of that. With a Cummins Dodge dually, I hardly know there is a load back there...which CAN be a bad thing!

timbersmith

02-29-2008, 01:59 PM

Hey, here's something that I've been wondering lately, and it seems that y'all here could enlighten me. I rather recently picked up a old beater truck to use as a daily driver and tow vehicle when needed (I don't expect to use it to tow much) - it's a 1979 Chevy long-bed (131" wheelbase) K10 (1/2-ton 4x4. 350/th350/np203), and looking in the owners manual I noticed that 2wd trucks are rated for higher tow weights than their 4wd counterparts. I would've thought that the 4wd would be more ideal, so why are the 2wd rated higher? Less of a drivetrain loss?

I haven't used it for towing yet, it's still in a thousand pieces waiting for the weather to get better so I can put it together, but I am planning on getting the best equipment for it when I am ready to tow something (trans cooler, brake controller, frame-mounted hitch - currently it's got a bumper-mounted receiver, upgraded wiring, etc).

- Mike

66patrick66

02-29-2008, 02:05 PM

I noticed that 2wd trucks are rated for higher tow weights than their 4wd counterparts. I would've thought that the 4wd would be more ideal, so why are the 2wd rated higher? Less of a drive train loss?
- Mike

A 4x2 truck and a 4x4 truck have a tow weight difference based on the weight of the added 4x4 equipment - otherwise, they are the same truck. No differences in frame, capacities, or anything else, OTHER than tow capacity. It has nothing to do with drive train loss, just the weight of the truck. A 4x4 just allows more opportunities to get stupid when towing, in the hands of a driver lacking experience and common sense. Last comment not aimed at you:)

ESSX28-1

02-29-2008, 08:50 PM

This may be a terminology question, but what are "electric" trailer brakes? Here in New Zealand most "hire/rental" (& many other) car trailers are fitted with hydraulic "over run" brakes which operate when the trailer moves along a sliding shaft towards the tow vehicle. They do need locking out when reversing

37 Terraplane#2

02-29-2008, 09:27 PM

Electric brakes are operated by hand lever independantly of your tow vehicle and put the drag Behind you where it needs to be, Stops the push from behind, Have to have a controller in the cab and wireing to the rear is likely why not on rentals but you should be able to buy them for your own trailer .

66patrick66

02-29-2008, 09:29 PM

Hydraulic (or "surge" brakes) on a trailer mean that there is a separate and dedicated brake master cylinder mounted on the trailer tongue, that actuates the trailer brakes when the tow vehicle slows down and/or stops by "surging" as the tow vehicle slows. Or course, gravity and deceleration being what they are, if the trailer is uphill from the tow vehicle, or if the trailer is being backed up, the brakes will activate, and usually at the most inopportune and inconvenient time! I don't like surge brakes, but with a rental trailer (and high-dollar dollies!), that is what they are equipped with. Most people using rentals don't have the electric controller in their vehicle, anyway...

Electric brakes are wired through the tow vehicle and are activated when the trailer is plugged into the tow vehicle. The servos on the trailer brakes actuate and slow/stop the trailer in proportion to the brake effort exerted by the driver as he stops the tow vehicle. The controller mounts under the dash and is accessible to the driver. It has a rheostat that controls the amount of current going to the trailer brakes (more for a loaded trailer, less for an empty trailer!), plus a manual activation handle that allows the driver to activate the brakes on the trailer alone in an emergency, i.e., if the trailer begins to sway to the point where control is difficult, he can activate the trailer brakes to straighten out the truck and trailer.

Most car haulers have brakes on all wheels. In fact, most states require that. Some only require a tandem axle trailer to have brakes on one axle.

Harry Hill

02-29-2008, 09:59 PM

Sam, back in the old days we pulled with what we had. Remember the movie "The Long Long Trailer"? I pulled horse trailer with a 61 Falcon Wagon, hat wasn't at all safe but I was young and stupid and sometimes that protects you. I was in hog heaven when I bought my 49 International Pick-Up. That ol six cylinder wasn't fast but it was strong. Yeah, I had to pull over at every turn out but I could put that truck in granny gear and crawl up any dirt road with a horse trailer full of donkey foals and a horse and never stall out. If a car was properly set up with load levelers and electric brakes and heavier tires than grade B and it was the same size as our Hudsons they could probably tow okay. I wouldn't hook a two axle trailer to one but I would a light travel trailer.

Harry