Remote Door Lock Kit for 36 Terraplane?

[rockyc]

Just wondering if anyone's ever installed a remote door lock/keyless entry kit in a Terraplane? If so, I'm wondering what kit works?

What about power window kits? Any luck there?

Thanks,
Rocky

[Richard E.]

I'm sure any of that stuff would be 12v and a 36T is 6v, so for starters you would have to convert the car to 12v. I have seen a few fancy hot rods made out of '36t's that probably have what you are looking for. Do a google search for "1936 Terraplane." All sorts of interesting stuff comes up.

[Ol racer]

FYI
Yes you need 12V System ...I have all those in my '37 &'47 Hudson's and work great except for the remote doors need a stronger solonoid if retaining original latch. if install 'Bear Claw latches' no problem. The '37 I used a power window kit removing the handle utilizing the original hardware to pull the window back then lower.

The '37 Door Lock was tricky since locks with handle and not a button but worked out fine.

The '47 PW & Remote Open & Locks was simpler and all the Kits are simple Plug & Use wiring.

Never regreted installing....

[rockyc]

I'm already in the process of converting to 12V, neg ground.

I think I want to keep it as original looking as possible, but it seems keyless entry would be a good thing to have.

[rambos_ride]

I'm already in the process of converting to 12V, neg ground.

I think I want to keep it as original looking as possible, but it seems keyless entry would be a good thing to have.


I'd look at

Autoloc
http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/

or

Rocky Hinge
http://rockyhin.ipower.com/store/index.html

for both your remote keyless entry and power window kits.

I've bought some items from both vendors and have been happy with the parts and service.

Dan

[hudsontech]

.................., but it seems keyless entry would be a good thing to have.

If you don't retain the key slot for the door, keyless is great - until the battery dies on you.

Tell a story on me - coming back from the Marlborough National last year the battery went dead on my Caddy overnight. Came out the next morning, went to open the door electrically - nada, nothing, wouldn't open. Was standing there wondering what to do next when the fellow in the next room came out, asked me what was wrong. Told him the battery had died and I couldn't get the door unlocked.

He looked at me and said "Use the key!!!" duh

Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN

[Ol racer]

Thats a great point to mention about a dead battery.

I forgot to mention that I rigged a 'pull cable' thru a hinge to the inside of one door latch to grab under the fender just in case.

I always install a Battery Kill Switch too.

[46HudsonPU]

Having never done this before - What does one need for remote keyless entry, with 'shaved doors'?
The first site indicated by Dan (Rambos Ride) shows some Bear Claw power door latches (with remote). (http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/details.lasso?itemid=BCLGPR) The description indicate that these will 'pop' the door open, at the push of a button. Does this do away with the traditional 'door poppers'?

Guess the 'Door latch' install kit (http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/details.lasso?itemid=BCINST-S) would depend on the situation; as well as what would be done for the interior door release/handle (http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/details.lasso?itemid=bcknob)...

Also - I am assuming that at least one entry point on the vehicle should be configured for an emergency manual entry (http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/details.lasso?itemid=sverkd), in case of mechanical problems or power issues (as indicated by hudsontech & Ol racer).
If a battery 'kill switch' is used, this would be the primary means for entry (unless the kill switch was readily accessible from some point on the exterior of the vehicle).

[Ol racer]

FYI
The Remote entry on my '47 Hudson did not need 'door poppers' springing open with the remote. Naturally If the kill switch is turned off the remotes will not work.

My switch is actually hidden outside as a theft deterent (to reduce Insurance rate) and shut off all electrical power. Many St Rods around here have a hidden switch they flip on then use their remote.

I did not install bear claws and found I needed 40# Solonoids to pull the stock door latches so I installed the pull cable as a secondary device. The Kits mount a solonoid at the bottom of the door then an 1/8" cable pulls the latch.

The Power window Kits usually need a bracket bolted across the door mid point to stabilize the drive unit mounted in the bottom. There are different variations but mine are cable driven like a power seat motor. I removed the vent window using a one piece window. I also have an express Option that pushing the remote twice will lower the drivers window.I used Auto Loc Kits.

In my '37 I decided to use the stock window mechanisms because the side windows need to slide back a few inches before lowering. I bought the JC Whitney Remote Kit (www.auto-accessories.com) (VPA International) that removes the inside handle then a 'gearbox' goes onto the shaft. I shortened the shaft and hid with a plug that I uphostered. I was amazed how well it works.

These were my first attempts at installing power windows & locks and looking back they were very simple to install & program the Remotes. Both Auto Loc and VPA have good Tech advice if necessary.