Oil Filter Lines

[Pacemaker500]

Are there any caveats that I should be aware of when removing and replacing the oil lines to and from the filter of my 232 block?

I also need a source for the two stickers that go on the filter housing body and top. I think HudsonKid was also looking or had some lined up but I can not find that thread.

[51hornetA]

KGap has the sticker set for the filter.

[Dave53-7C]

Some people suggest using metal lines as opposed to the original rubber hoses. The concerns with rubber hoses range from breaking (and resulting oil loss) to a possible fire hazard.

K-gap for sticker.

[Pacemaker500]

KGap has the sticker set for the filter.
K-gap for sticker.

K-Gap! I thought I remembered someone selling them.

Some people suggest using metal lines as opposed to the original rubber hoses. The concerns with rubber hoses range from breaking (and resulting oil loss) to a possible fire hazard.


By metal, do you mean braided or solid?

[hudsonkid]

Use brake line, find the correct short lengths, and bend it.

as far as decals, I did not think that K-GAP had them.

try this link for the correct decals.

decals for oil filter (http://www.studebaker-intl.com/pages/1-093.htm)

[51hornetA]

K-Gap does sell them I got my set from them. Look at this link it lists all the decals that they sell.

http://www.k-gap.com/pages/page14.htm

[Dave53-7C]

51hornet A,

OMG :eek: ...are you saying that hudsonkid is WRONG? That may cost you an invitation to the next Glitter party. :(

[Dave53-7C]

Pacemaker500,

Hudsonkid is right, use solid metal lines. The exterior of braided lines will protect against physical damage. Internally, however, they can still blow and leak.

[51hornetA]

Nope, just saying he is using a different type of right. Before K-Gap offered them they didn't. Now they do......so we are both right in different ways....its a temporal thing rather than a spacial anomaly

[Dave53-7C]

Now what if a certain little chatterbox were to read your post? Her little head would probably explode.

[hudsonkid]

geez....I just got up for work, and after reading you guys posts, my head hurts. I think I'm going back to bed.

Oh yeah Daaavvee...

If you read my post I think you'll see that I was unsure that K-GAP sold the decals. either way, my oil filter is still decal-less...

don't hate on the kid....

[Dave53-7C]

We'll call work and tell then that your brain crashed and you need to reboot.
BTW, I was just expressing shock and dismay at the thought of anyone guestioning the great and powerful OZ. How could anyone hate on the kid?

[hudsonkid]

I wasn't feeling no love...

[dynolou]

You can get good quality lines made at many industrial supplies, just bring in your old ones so they can get correct length and fittings, tell them that you need them for a remote oil filter. To shed a little rain on Hudson Kid , I am using hoses on my remote oil cannister, I would worry more about an all steel line vibrating and possibly cracking at the flared ends. Lou Cote

[hudsonkid]

dynolou, I never said that steel lines were the only option, just probably the easiest.

BTW, mine aren't steel..... :cool:

[half baked]

hydraulic lines would be a good reliable alternative here with pressure ratings in the 1000's they wont be stressed at 50-60psi and they are nice and flexible to avoid fatigue that might affect steel lines. a little pricier surely but you can do it yourself if you have a lathe. another job to add to my ever growing list...

[SuperDave]

If double flared steel lines work well in brake applications that see much greater pressure as well as vibration, I certainly wouldn't worry about the low oil presure ..Mine are flexible only becuse that was what was used originally. Next time. I'll save money and use premade brake lines. Don't use copper for oil or brakes!:)
Davew

[hudsondad]

I've used brake line on a couple now with no problem. It's neat and the oil filter is bolted to the side of the engine. The lines can be bent neatly and there is no vibration or movement between the filter and the engine. This setup will be permanent.

[hudsonkid]

I've used brake line on a couple now with no problem. It's neat and the oil filter is bolted to the side of the engine. The lines can be bent neatly and there is no vibration or movement between the filter and the engine. This setup will be permanent.



I don't know... Lou said they'll vibrate right off, or crack. :rolleyes:

Maybe his motor mounts are worn, thus causing a lot of vibration.

I bet I know what kind of oil lines are on his hudson, my guess they're not steel, brass, or copper..... :p

[Dave53-7C]

You can get good quality lines made at many industrial supplies, just bring in your old ones so they can get correct length and fittings, tell them that you need them for a remote oil filter. To shed a little rain on Hudson Kid , I am using hoses on my remote oil cannister, I would worry more about an all steel line vibrating and possibly cracking at the flared ends. Lou Cote

Then you better start to worry about your fuel and brake lines!

[Dave53-7C]

I wasn't feeling no love...

That's because you may not be receptive to it. Just open your heart, do some Pilates, enjoy a walk on the beach and get in touch with your emotions. Let the love flowwwwwww.

[hudsondad]

I don't know... Lou said they'll vibrate right off, or crack. :rolleyes:

Maybe his motor mounts are worn, thus causing a lot of vibration.

I bet I know what kind of oil lines are on his hudson, my guess they're not steel, brass, or copper..... :p

I think Lou also said he had a remote mounted filter which I would think should require flexible lines in his case.

[dynolou]

To HudsonKid, for your info I have the late model AMC mounts on my Hornet.I have worked in transmission repair since 1985, and occasionally have seen cracks develop in the flared area. Lately I've seen some S-10 Blazers with the pushin coolerlines crack in the flare area. Bending metal lines can be done but I think my stainless braded lines look more period correct. Didn't mean to disturb Hornets nest, by suggesting use of flex able lines. Ha!! Lou

[hudsonkid]

To HudsonKid, for your info I have the late model AMC mounts on my Hornet.I have worked in transmission repair since 1985, and occasionally have seen cracks develop in the flared area. Lately I've seen some S-10 Blazers with the pushin coolerlines crack in the flare area. Bending metal lines can be done but I think my stainless braded lines look more period correct. Didn't mean to disturb Hornets nest, by suggesting use of flex able lines. Ha!! Lou

well, let me ask this, how similar is a trans line route and mounting as compared to a hudson oil filter?

If memory serves correct, the rest of us are running a rigidly mounted hudson style oil filter that is bolted to the engine, that should vibrate with the rest of the assembly at the same consistency. Why would that add to the stress level? remotely mounted, sure... on the engine, c'mon...

If a quick reference available line was out there, meaning one I could go to the tractor supply, buy and use, without much hassle, I would have went that route. But why bother, since hudsondad was so kind to include lines with the filter, I used them.

Oh yeah, how do you figure the bra(i)ded stainless lines look period correct. for what period?

And BTW, don't worry about the hornet's nest, we got our own thread... :cool:

[Pacemaker500]

Thanks, all.

I will be using brake line type at least for now because I was able to take old ones into the line shop and have them duplicated within 15 minutes.

I even have a line to use as a loop so I can run the engine a little while the filter case is being painted. Other threads have stated that no filter is OK with theses engines.

I will have the same line shop make stainless lines when they get it for fuel and brakes in the Spring.

[Dave53-7C]

well, let me ask this, how similar is a trans line route and mounting as compared to a hudson oil filter?

If memory serves correct, the rest of us are running a rigidly mounted hudson style oil filter that is bolted to the engine, that should vibrate with the rest of the assembly at the same consistency. Why would that add to the stress level? remotely mounted, sure... on the engine, c'mon...

If a quick reference available line was out there, meaning one I could go to the tractor supply, buy and use, without much hassle, I would have went that route. But why bother, since hudsondad was so kind to include lines with the filter, I used them.

Oh yeah, how do you figure the bra(i)ded stainless lines look period correct. for what period?

And BTW, don't worry about the hornet's nest, we got our own thread... :cool:

Man, talk about not feelin' the love! Kid, Kid, you just don't get it. In order to be credible, it seems that we would have to be old enought (80+) to have raced cars that had artillary wheels and tillers. Then, people magically believe whatever you say.

I like the trans cooler line thought. :D With all of those metal lines snapping all over the world, I'm buying stock in companies that make brake and tran fluids as well as replacement lines. Then, I'm going to the garage and installing metal lines on my oil filter. That should help with cooling by eliminating at least 3.75 BTH/Hr. :rolleyes:

Sheesh, why do threads have to turn into pi$$ing matches?

[Pacemaker500]

That should help with cooling by eliminating at least 3.75 BTH/Hr.

I am decent at math but I can not find the cooling coefficent data of the lines to put in a formula in that calculates the 3.75 BTU per hour difference in the steel lines and the "OEM" or brake line style.

Please post it. This is the type of Hudson egnieering knowledge I want to learn.

Are you using a constant air flow rate or curving it with increased speed?

[Dave53-7C]

IM JOKING! Note the sarcastic face at the end of my post. However, some minor cooling would occur when using metal lines.

[51hornetA]

Dave,

its not so minor as you think. As you know I have access to a wind tunnel and have my Hornet setup in it as we speak working out my calculations for the paper I am submitting to Aerodyamics weekly titled "Fluid dynamics and the funnel taper effect of air movement over a 51 Hudson Hornet at speed". My preliminary findings suggest the metal lines would cool the oil at a rate of efficiency greater than braided lines by a factor of 2. So this effect is not to be taken lightly. And speaking to the suggestion that the lines will somehow crack from vibration does not reconcile with the vibration characteristics of solidly affixed engine components that would vibrate at the same frequency rate hence would not be prone to vibrational stress as suggested.

[Pacemaker500]

IM JOKING! Note the sarcastic face at the end of my post.

...working out my calculations for the paper I am submitting to Aerodyamics weekly titled "Fluid dynamics and the funnel taper effect of air movement over a 51 Hudson Hornet at speed".

OK...thanks for the good natured humor.

That being said, this is the type of Hudson engineering is what I would like to see this forum (a sub group) and HET (a sub group) return to public view.

I have done modeling and simulations for the government using LINUX based PCs. If y'all have the design data, we can do some serious number crunching and prove once again why Hudsons were ahead of their time.

[Dave53-7C]

Dave,

its not so minor as you think. As you know I have access to a wind tunnel and have my Hornet setup in it as we speak working out my calculations for the paper I am submitting to Aerodyamics weekly titled "Fluid dynamics and the funnel taper effect of air movement over a 51 Hudson Hornet at speed". My preliminary findings suggest the metal lines would cool the oil at a rate of efficiency greater than braided lines by a factor of 2. So this effect is not to be taken lightly. And speaking to the suggestion that the lines will somehow crack from vibration does not reconcile with the vibration characteristics of solidly affixed engine components that would vibrate at the same frequency rate hence would not be prone to vibrational stress as suggested.

Well, we'll see if your infomation can substantiate with findings based in science. BTW, are you using the moving belt approach to work out drag coefficient? You can do this since step down Hudsons are so low. Isn't your tunnel low speed as opposed to transonic, supersonic or hypersonic? I agree with your assessment of the steel lines. Resonant frequencies would cancel.

[walt's garage-53]

Are there any caveats that I should be aware of when removing and replacing the oil lines to and from the filter of my 232 block?

I also need a source for the two stickers that go on the filter housing body and top. I think HudsonKid was also looking or had some lined up but I can not find that thread.
Use 1/8 pipe fittings and Neoprene oil hose and line clamps. Been on my 53 for 102,000 miles and no problems.

[51hornetA]

Actually Dave, we are using a stationary resistance test that we also employ to calculate wing deflection coefficients under load. I am using the standard smoke test and infrared high speed cameras to test the funnel tapers that as you are well aware from our last discussions form just below the rear windshield on the Hudson when the speed rises above 65 mph. I am testing this effect to see if this is responsible for the wind loaded lowering of a stepdown at speed. I am sure that the Hudson engineers stumbled on this beneficial effect by chance and not through conscious design. I will update you more on the findings as I progress.

Sorry to have digressed so far from the original topic of where to find filter stickers but since I answered that on the first page I do not feel so guilty.

[Rod]

If the filter is mounted on the block use metal lines. If the filter is on the inner fender you must use flexible lines.