Gel cell batteries

[Clutch guy]

I have seen several Gel cell batteries in vehicles.I think that they work very well,but does someone make the false case that you can hide it in and/or do they make a universal hold-down for it.This is one of the topics we plan to talk about in the maintenence Tech session at Auburn 2007.Thanks for your replys.

[Hudson308]

I know that places like Summit Racing equipment and Jeg's sell boxes that are specifically designed for these batteries, but they're proabably a little too flashy if you're going for the stock look. I have an Optima "red-top" in my Hudson for the past six or seven years, with no problems whatsoever. I had heard that the batteries don't last if the car is stored for long periods, but that has not been my experience... my car is in "dead storage" (not accessible) from late October though late March every year. What I like best about it is that there is absolutely NO seepage or residue from the acid inside. My battery tray stays spic and span.

[Scott]

Try Quail Services at www.quailservices.com They have them for Optima batteries

[SamJ]

Installing an Optima 6-volt battery in my '40 is one of the best things I ever did for the car. "Flip front" Hudsons required special low-profile 6-volt batteries, which are not made any more as far as I know. Put in the wrong height battery, and when the terminals make contact with the hood you get spectacular results. (Not good, but spectacular). Before Optima, I was using a battery designed for Volkswagens, which did not have enough cranking power or longevity. With Optima, I can leave the car for weeks and with a small prime it fires right up. Maybe some people think it looks odd in an all-original car, but I don't care...my car's a driver. One caveat...when the Optima is completely drained (which is not a good thing), the generator may not be sufficient to re-charge it. I drained mine using a blend of carelessness and stupidity and had to put it on a deep cycle charger for a couple of days to get it back to normal. No problems since, though...its been 4 years and counting...:cool:

[Jon B]

The Optima battery is indeed a good one, but I just wanted to mention that I believe there are still one or two "standard" lead batteries still made which will fit the 1940-37 Hudsons without producing the .... uh... spectacular results.

One is size 2LF, made by the Axion company (formerly New Castle Battery?) and measures 10-1/2" x 7" x 7-7/8" high (to top of terminal). Has "Ford" embossed on side. 570 cold cranking amps. See http://www.turbostart.com/products/battery2LF.htm .

The other is made by Antique Auto Battery, under the number G2LW. Size: 10-1/4" x 6-3/4", x 8" high. 750 cold cranking amps. See http://www.antiqueautobattery.com/other.htm

Not owning a Hudson of this era, I would not know if these sizes are exactly correct for that car.

[Aaron D. IL]

I think Kanters carries a casing that looks exactly like that original batteries the car left the dealership with. You can put your new battery (maybe even an Optima) and still have a very stock appearance.

[TwinH]

Two Optima 6V in my 49 work very well,but look like crap. One way or
another I'll hide them with one of those fake tar top covers. Ill get a better
pic of the hold downs if your interested.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/Ramblur/3531b4c5.jpg

[51hornetA]

Why do you need 2 batteries?

[TwinH]

Why do you need 2 batteries?


Two 6V wired in series for 12 V starting, charging(Delco alternator),ignition
(Crane Cams points eliminator) and most all the lighting circuits. Battery that
is grounded to the chassis is tapped off the + terminal to provide 6V for
everything else that wasn't converted, clock,heater, OD(although I think it
would work fine on 12V),lighter. This car came to me this way and in the
two years I've had it been absolutely trouble-free electrical wise. The stock
radio was disconnected by the PO and has a sticker from a radio shop
in MA dated 1978 so I don't know if it has been converted to 12V or not
and won't risk burning something up,so I'll eventually pull the radio back
out and have it checked to see what I've got.

I'm sure its not the cheapest way to convert to 12V,but it does work very
well.

Bright lights and hot spark are a good thing until those halogen headlights
stopped a deer in its tracks(in my lane) in Tulsa last summer. Fortunately
the Coker Classics and rebuilt brakes were able to stop short of imminent
body damage...:)

[Geoff C., N.Z.]

Two Optima 6V in my 49 work very well,but look like crap. One way or
another I'll hide them with one of those fake tar top covers. Ill get a better
pic of the hold downs if your interested.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/Ramblur/3531b4c5.jpg

Do I detect a little double standard here? That whole set-up(including the alternator) is non original for a '49, why bother about how the batteries look?
They look perfectly clean and tidy to me!

[TwinH]

Probably just me,but from 20 feet away there the first thing I see when I
look at it. 99.9% of the folks that look at it don't have a clue as to whats
stock and whats not, so hiding the batteries is just for me.

[Heart_Of_Texas]

Two 6V wired in series for 12 V starting, charging(Delco alternator),ignition
(Crane Cams points eliminator) and most all the lighting circuits. Battery that
is grounded to the chassis is tapped off the + terminal to provide 6V for
everything else that wasn't converted, clock,heater, OD(although I think it
would work fine on 12V),lighter. This car came to me this way and in the
two years I've had it been absolutely trouble-free electrical wise. The stock
radio was disconnected by the PO and has a sticker from a radio shop
in MA dated 1978 so I don't know if it has been converted to 12V or not
and won't risk burning something up,so I'll eventually pull the radio back
out and have it checked to see what I've got.

I'm sure its not the cheapest way to convert to 12V,but it does work very
well.

Bright lights and hot spark are a good thing until those halogen headlights
stopped a deer in its tracks(in my lane) in Tulsa last summer. Fortunately
the Coker Classics and rebuilt brakes were able to stop short of imminent
body damage...:)

TWIN H

I am very interested in the electrical schematic of what is installed in your car. Is the gold colored item installed at the end of the batteries an isolator? I just installed an optima battery and an altenator... mine is a 6 volt... but I am interested in the concept of using two optimas to provide 12 volts to run my AC compressor clutch and blower motor for the interior unit. If nothing else... pictures of the battery installation from both sides, top and ends would be beneficial.

Thanks

[TwinH]

Ken, The gold colored box is the ignition,an earlier version of this:
http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&lvl=5&prt=160

I'll get you some pics of the battery install and what I have of wiring diagrams
from PO. Where do you get a 6V alternator? Just off the top of my head,I think
you'll run into problems doing the opposite of my system. I think you'd have
to isolate the grounds on your 12V equipment and I'm not sure that can be
done on your typical A/C compressor clutch. Anyway give me a few days and
I'll send you some stuff. I'm in the middle of painting my garage office,so
everything is moved and covered up. Jeff Lynn

[Heart_Of_Texas]

Thanks, looking forward to getting your information. I am collecting information to add to my website. I actually have an Optima with 6 volt postitve altenator installed. Recently I purchased a 6 volt positive ground isolator with the intention of installing a second Optima battery as a reserve supply. As I capture and refine the information, I will be posting how to do articles. Your comments referenced to the postive ground are well understood and appreciated. The motor in the airconditoning unit is 6volt. Current attention is focused on adjusting the AC clutch to work with 6 volts.