Posted by: twelch
on Mar 20, 2009
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As the temperatures fluctuate, so does the air pressure in your tires. If tire pressure is checked on a regular basis, it's often in need of adjustment. Proper tire pressure can improve your cars maximum fuel mileage, provide better tire traction, increased handling characteristics and extended tire life.
Every tire has its manufacturer-specified pressure printed on the sidewall. A conscious effort to keep your tires at their specified pressure can really pay off, perhaps when you need it the most.
Posted by: twelch
on Mar 20, 2009
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After you install headers on your engine, you will need to re-tune the engine. This is due to the improved cylinder scavenging of the exhaust gases. The improved scavenging causes a leaner burn in the cylinder. You will need to enrich the fuel mixer or even re-jet the carburetor primaries.
Starts with a new set of spark plugs and enrich the air/fuel mixture slowly. Check the plug color until you achieve a tan color. White is too lean and sooty black is too rich. This may take some time to get right, but it's well worth the effort. Don't forget to take up on those header bolts for the first few days of use, you don't want an exhaust leak.
Posted by: twelch
on Mar 20, 2009
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One of the most frequently ask questions we get is, "How do I upgrade to 12 volts". The 12 volt upgrade is probably the easiest and least expensive project for the do-it-yourselfer. Before we get into the project, we would like to share a few of the most frequently asked questions.
Posted by: twelch
on Mar 20, 2009
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The Not So Good Old Days
In today's environmentally conscious society, changing your own oil has become somewhat more challenging that it may have been in the past. In the 70's we used to save our used motor oil in 5 gallon drums and when they were full, we sold the oil to a recycler. As time progressed the recyclers found that they didn't have to pay for used oil and now charge for disposal. In the past few years, curb-side and drop-off recycling of used motor oil has become a standard in populated areas.
The restrictions on these services are many and time consuming. In our area, curb-side pickup of used motor oil is available if the oil is placed into one gallon plastic milk containers and if the cap is taped on. This sounds good until you try to empty an old style drain pan into a funnel atop a milk container. This can be rather messy.
Posted by: twelch
on Mar 20, 2009
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Electrical devices, including Spark Plugs, use only the electrical energy necessary to perform the function for which they are designed for. Ignition Wires are nothing more than conductors of supplied energy. An ignition wire that "allegedly" generates an "increase" in spark energy will have no effect on the spark jumping across the spark plug gap.
The energy consumed at the spark plug gap wouldn't be any more than what is needed to jump the gap. An example would be if your were to install in a 100 watt light bulb into a 100,000 watt source. The 100-watt bulb only consumes the wattage needed to illuminate it. This would be a feature not to pay extra for next time you shop for wires.
The best set of Ignition wires we have run across are the Taylor 10mm & 8mm, spiral wound wire sets. They about $50 for universal sets and about $40 for custom sets. Mallory Sidewinder and Ford Motorsports helical wound wire sets are very good as well. All run in the $40 to $50 dollar range.
Posted by: twelch
on Mar 20, 2009
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To unleash those hidden horses hiding in your GM H.E.I. distributor, consider installing an ignition re-curve kit. A simple change of the centrifugal advance weights and springs can make an unbelievable difference.
The kit can be purchased from your local auto parts store and can be installed in about half an hour. All you require are a few basic hand tools and a timing light to install the kit.
The weights are located immediately under the rotor. Even without changing the rotor, plugs, or plug wires it makes a dramatic difference. For $10.00 to $15.00 it is pretty cheap horsepower.
Posted by: twelch
on Mar 20, 2009
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Until recently, the most common method of checking an engine coolant hose was by visual inspection of the outside cover for signs of wear. Obvious signs of "ballooning" under pressure and "physical damage" are easy to spot, but what you can't see is what you really need to know about. Resent research has shown that most hoses fail from the inside out.
Posted by: twelch
on Mar 20, 2009
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Q & A on emission testing from Ted's Garage
Posted by: twelch
on Mar 20, 2009
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Waxing
Winter driving is by far the hardest on your cars exterior. Sand, road-salts, ice and extreme cold temperatures create more wear on your cars exterior than the rest of all the other seasons combined. Winter Waxing is a very inexpensive way to keep your vehicle looking new longer.
Continued waxing during the winter months will act to further protect the paint from the effects of winter driving. Weekly washings are very important too. Pay special attention to the wheel wells and molding area, flush them well.
When weighed against the cost of new vehicle replacement and refinishing costs, waxing is one of the most cost effective preventative maintenance tasks you can do yourself.
Posted by: twelch
on Mar 20, 2009
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The saying "One mans junk is another mans treasure" has never more true than it is with old car parts. Several times I have stopped myself short of throwing out what I considered to be useless parts, just so later on I could stuff them in the back of my truck for a trip to the local swap meet. For the most part, I ended up selling most of what I planned to throw away; you never can tell what others many find as a treasure.
My father handed down his knowledge of finding parts and picking up bargains to me at young age. A veteran himself of hundreds of swap meets and countless hours in wrecking yards, his parts knowledge was vast, to say the least. Each trip was a learning experience for myself and we would always come home with something.